VYAPAM Scam - the Outrage and the Undercurrents

Dr. Anand Rai is a medical practitioner based in Indore. He couldn’t keep himself isolated from the news of forged admissions and large scale corruption in MP state agency conducted pre medical test (Madhya Pradesh PMT). The state agency under question was Madhya Pradesh VYAvsayik PAriksha Mandal (popularly referred to by its acronym VYAPAM). He filed an FIR in Indore Court and based on the hearings one of the kingpins of the scam Jagdish Sagar was arrested by MP Police. Jagdish Sagar later threatened Anand Rai in the same court premise. There were several such stated or implicit threats issued to Dr. Rai from people who were either already arrested or were being investigated by the Police. Dr. Anand Rai asked for the Police protection citing a threat to his life under witness protection law. Initially he was refused any such protection. Later, once the issue started showing its true proportions, he was granted a Police security, albeit he had to pay for this protection from his own pocket.

This is the story of a man who was key to exposing one of the most intriguing scams in recent memory. The way law keepers and concerned authorities reacted to the threat to his life raises a number of questions. Did they not know the deep rooted stench that may have been present in the case, possibly involving people from highest corridors of power, or did they know this all too well and decided that discouraging the act of such whistle blowing was a prudent way to safeguard those involved?

Nevertheless, the scam has manifested itself in its truer form ever since. This is a very curious case in the sense that it did not surface through the bites of overnight sensational revelations. Earliest reports that VYAPAM was missing a decent bone or two in its functioning started appearing in 2004. From 2009, these reports started gaining a new lease of momentum when the sheer number of people involved ensured that the cozy club of beneficiaries could not be trusted to safeguard the shady details of scam. There was a vortex of breakdown of information – sometimes from middlemen, professionals who had allegedly joined government services with questionable credentials, students, and even parents. A few mysterious deaths of those who had links to VYAPAM soon followed. But we waited. We waited because the deaths were not significant in number and hence threshold of pan India attention was still not around.

source (focusnews.com)

But that scenario has changed now, some media reports put the number of people associated with VYAPAM scam who have died after investigation were initiated to as high as 48. MP administration itself admits that there have been around 28 deaths. We can reasonably put the actual number somewhere in between. Of these deaths, at least 12 have been reported to have occurred under mysterious circumstances. For example the case of Dr. D. K. Sakalley, who was the dean of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Medical College - he first took a medical leave from his college and then later allegedly immolated himself in his own backyard. There are several other examples where nature of deaths can’t be dismissed as natural without raising an eyebrow.

These deaths have given fuel to the public outcry and media outrage to the scam. There are multipronged demands from opposition parties both from within and outside the state to hand over the investigation to CBI and let it be monitored by Supreme Court. State government says that the investigation is currently monitored by High Court and is driven by a High Court constituted SIT and STF (Special Task Force) – and that handing over this case to Supreme court will not only undermine its own state agencies but will also amount to contempt of the High Court.

But beyond this almost familiar chorus of an Indian scam, there are some uncomfortable questions nobody is willing to own. Dr. Anand Rai’s expose was made early in 2013 and the matter was being actively investigated. VYAPAM was at the center of this brewing storm. There was little doubt that some of its own people, entrusted with the critical task of feeding state government with administrative cadres are conniving to fill up their coffers. But even in the face of such distrust, all the non IAS based exams were folded under the preview of VYAPAM by MP government in the same year. This was a decision rooted in contradictions. Government could have waited for a few years to let VYAPAM clear its name from the scandal and then could have proceeded with transferring even more powers to the commission. The same year witnessed something even more unique – Madhya Pradesh became the first and only state to remove physical fitness marks from police cadre test. This category of test was relegated to ‘qualifying’ criteria and it didn’t matter how well you performed in the test itself. Effectively all the marks were now being given during written tests and interviews. Voices were raised against this move and many failed to understand the rationale behind such a decision.

source (thehindu.com) 

Some state medical colleges did a commendable jobs of reporting any suspect admission to state authority, with a copy each sent to Chief Minister himself between 2011 and 2013. They called out the students’ name and roll numbers in their reports to state authorities. Despite this, however, the Chief Minister said in the assembly that he was not aware of a single student securing admission through unfair means under VYAPAM. Opposition and some whistleblowers have accused the ruling administration of being party to a larger conspiracy – the attempt to inject its cadres in the key administrative and bureaucratic positions. These positions, once filled, continue to be served by the person for around thirty years unlike political incumbency which goes under ballot hammer every five years.

The arrest of Jagdish Sagar, based on the PIL of Dr. Anand Rai, brought major information related to the scam to public preview. Jagdish Sagar had once sold his wife’s Mangalsutra to complete his medical education. Later in his career, this little known man from Gwalior amassed such an empire of illicit connections and wealth that left MP Police baffled and scrambling for answers. During a particular raid at his residence, millions of Rupees of cash and records of at least thirty properties at various places were recovered. During interrogation he quoted below ongoing rates for the admissions under the VYAPAM scam:

·         Conductor in transport department – 15-20 lacs

·         Food inspector – 20-25 lacs

·         Sub inspector – 15-22 lacs

The modus operandi of scam was simple and varied – and speaks of the confidence that the involved people had while altering established norms of admissions. Some students had their exam entrance cards tweaked and photos changed to an impersonator. The impersonator would often charge a hefty amount for appearing in the exam on behalf of students and ensuing that the students cleared the entrance tests. These photos were later restored to originals after exams. In other cases a person was strategically seated between two students and allowed them to copy the responses. There were also instances where students left their answer sheets empty which were later filled up by middleman and VYAPAM officials.

Everything was possible provided you had the deep pockets to fund it.

Official numbers put such questionable government employees who cleared the test by unfair means to more than a thousand. Moreover over five hundred medical doctors have allegedly cheated in the exams to get in to medical colleges. Over two thousand five hundred FIRs have been filed against people across multiple districts of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. Some reports suggest that at least eight state level professional entrance exams were tampered between 2009 and 2010.

These are damning numbers, and unsurprisingly state government and by extension even the central government of the day find themselves in a tight spot. There are more dirty linens expected to be washed in public. Exposes and counter exposes, media bites and revealing testimonies are going to occupy much of the print and television media space in coming days. People are aghast with yet another reinforcement of their skepticism in government functioning – that everything is rotten from top down and only high and mighty get their way in today’s influence driven world.

But there is also a risk that we may miss the larger picture amid all the brewing storm. Who were the people, now conveniently termed as ‘victims’ of the scam, who bribed middlemen and officials to secure their children a seat in government jobs? Who were the people who crossed all the barriers of ethics, and let themselves be driven by greed, insecurity, and deceit of a comfortable and upward mobile life? They formed a nexus with the more than willing middlemen, giving shape to a Kraken of a scam in which everyone seemed to be winning, but everyone eventually has lost. In their moment of misplaced judgement, they chose to abandon all sense of proprietary and did the exact same thing they have been accusing political and administrative elite of doing.

This indicates to a rot that runs deep in our conscious, we as masses are susceptible to lure of short term gains and allow ourselves to be corrupted at the slightest of possibilities. No wonder then, that the political and administrative leadership show us the mirror of our intentions, albeit in a scale and manner befitting their clout. No wonder then, that such scams have repeatedly surfaced, not only in Madhya Pradesh but in places like Haryana and Bihar where parents have been shown to be a consenting party to this sinister pattern.

source (indianexpress.com)

Intriguing trend of deaths may be giving VYAPAM an odd sense of public attention and we should therefore brace for a lot of self-righteous comments and coverage from people sitting on the high chairs on their judgment. But the real question is whether we have the courage and conviction to point out where the real blame lies? Why do official believe that they will find enough people interested in such murky dealings to make it a multi-million Dollar scam every time? What gives them the confidence with which the launch such shady enterprises? Do they know of our frailties and motivations better than us? Or are we just plain hypocrite to admit to our own shortcomings? 

(Written by Manish Jha, an Alumnus of IIIT Hyderabad and currently working with Microsoft as Program Manager. He is also associated with a social initiative 'Joy of Reading')

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Spotlight : Ordinances,Indian Constitution, Indian Parliament and the Largest Democracy

The power to make ordinances is an extraordinary device that is enumerated in article 123 of the constitution and is a device that should be used sparingly to deal with such situations when both the houses of the Parliament are not in session. Thus the framers  of the constitution  of India  made it as a device through  which  laws can be made but it  act  as a device  that  is just kept  under the parliamentary  supremacy . Thus Parliament  is the way to make laws for  the union and it should  be fair to adopt  a  system  of passing  of bills  in the Parliament rather  than making  executive  orders. It is the way to make the will of the people high rather than encompassing despotic ways though they are entitled for a few days or to a few months.

source (wsj.com)

The Parliament of India is the place to make laws and is represented by the people directly or indirectly. Thus the framers brought such a great power to make laws with the Parliament. Thus as the President  of India  mentioned  that  the government  should  use the device  of the Parliament  to pass the bills because  it can make discussions,  which  is a great  process regarding   the democracy  in India.

The process of passing   a bill in the Parliament of India is a great process.  It is composed of many steps and so it takes a great time to pass a bill in the Parliament. It can make general public to understand  the policies  of  the government  and in the case of the current  government,  it can create  an assessment  regarding  the policy shift from the previous  government. Thus through  proper discussion  within  the public , it can make  public  opinion ,  which  is a great  directive  in a democracy.

source (prsindia.org)

The discussion  within  the Parliament  can avail  a situation  in which, the parliamentarians should  be familiar  with  the  governmental  policies. Through discussing it, proper suggestions will be prompted with solutions from the experts and from the opposition too. Such discussions can make  opposition  to understand  the interest of government regarding  such  policies and through  such understanding  the opposition  can discharge  their role fairly.

source (frontline.in)

Through such measures from the opposition it can make better discussion within the parliamentarians and   media can explore in a great way. Through such discussions in the Parliament, the government can understand the drawbacks of the proposed legislation. It is the way to determine  the attitude  of  people  regarding  this because , the proposed bill will  have to  go through  five steps  mentioned  in the constitution  and it will take  time. So within  the said period of time, the views of  public  and their attitude  of  the  concerned  bill  should  be expressed  through  various  measures.

Though  the ordinances  must be passed  in both  the houses,  it is sometime  raised as an extension  of the false politics  to achieve  their  ends and it was  revealed  with proclaiming  ordinance regarding  the protection  of  members  of the Parliament in corruption  case and it was deactivated  later due to strong  public opinion. Thus it aroused as a notion within the public to achieve their ends regarding the party politics at certain occasions.

It should be noted that at certain  occasions,  the  attempts  to pass a bill in the Parliament  failed  and the government  later preferred  ordinances  for the legislation  because ,  they want  to achieve  the advantages  of  enacting  laws to achieve  their ends.

source (indianexpress.com)

The president  of  India  is the titular  executive post,  though  the stances  of the constitution  make the president  binding  on the  aid and advice proclaimed  by the cabinet ,  such ordinances  can make collisions  between  real and nominal executives.  It may happen when the president is appointed by the opposition party when they were in power and with the new government because of party politics.

The ordinances  should  be passed  when there is a situation  in which , the bills  cannot  be passed  in the Parliament  and sincere  and genuine efforts  from  the government  to pass the bill in the floor of both the houses had been already taken. The ordinance should be used as an extension of the sincere efforts to pass the bill in the Parliament. Passing of the bills in the Parliament can make proper discussions, which is an inevitable pedestal in a democracy rather than despotic ways.

(Written by Vineeth V, an IPS aspirant pursuing graduation in Political Science at Trivandrum, Kerala)

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Live Experience : Another Expedition in the Gerry Martin Wildlife Project in Dodamarg, Maharashtra, India

During my last expedition in Dodamarg, I was so new to wildlife though not so new to nature as such. My treks had kept me close to it but the spark came when I had a closer experience in Feb'14 at Dodamarg itself. My older post says it all, what all I noted down in my open book. I went back more aware and a keen observant. Months later after lot more study, closer observance and follow up, and most importantly under the influence and inspiration of many like Robert Swan or Bahar Dutt, my love for nature is now becoming a passion. I have been a wanderer but my idea of travel has changed to be more meaningful, where nature is closely felt and something given back. And as I search for direction for my passion, what better could have been another expedition in wild where it all started.

The Draco lizard

Day1, Belgaum

It was 08:00 am and I was late by an hour. With people waiting, I just had a cup of tea and loaded my fav parle-G for the next 4 days. After acquaintances with interesting people, Harsha n family, Gorika, Vinod my next 2 hours vanished just talking with the two young chaps Pramod n Samat (Harsha's kids). The road was entirely through wildland as we crossed from eastern to western side of the ghats and 2 hr later, at the turn towards Medhe conservation centre, it was Sumanth waiting for us who already spotted a flying lizard (Draco) sitting on a tree trunk. I was excited as I never saw this species earlier. The flap under its neck was really prominent as it continuously moved it, mostly to bully another male in vicinity. I couldn’t capture a good shot, but a good start. 

We dumped our bags in jeep and trailed towards the Field station. Near the graveyard that I precisely remembered from Feb another fresh witness of a Woodpecker pair (golden flame back). Again I wasn’t so lucky to capture a shot. Then a Hornbill couple flew by above our heads, the distinct sound of their flight is hard to forget. I went after them in the woods click but hard luck. The jeep was back now and all hopped in. Will hardly space for all, me and Sumanth were climbing at its back, already discussing stuff like Madhav gadgil’s report and the field station at Hunsur.

The Medhe Field station

We were here, beside a stream you read The Gerry Martin Project, the field station. This place has changed completely with a more permanent roof, kitchen and rest rooms it is going be a much more comfortable stay than my last visit. Another lizard we spotted just at the station, Calodes Rouxii (below).

Lizard at the station, calodus rouxii

So the plan was to go downstream post lunch, till then people can rest. But I was not in any mood to rest. I convinced Vinod and we both went down for a walk downstream. Sumanth made us beware of two pythons that stay under a tree hole. That was exciting indeed. We went ahead to explore. We found no pythons, just a few birds and we came back.

Sumanth had some captured snakes few days before when Wolfgang visited here. He planned to show them to us before leaving them to forest. That was exciting stuff. It started with the saw-scaled viper, a venomous snake, pretty small in size. Clicked a few shots, but I was more curious to see its behavior. It sat in a whirl defense position without any movement inside a box, camouflaged very well among the dry leaves it was kept with. As Sumanth told, vipers are unpredictable and can shoot to strike without any warnings we remained careful.

Saw scaled viper

Now, the non-venomous ones that we all happily handled. Montane trinket was very calm snake with really less movement. We all had a chance to feel it and let it crawl on our arms. The kids were asking ‘why it is not biting’ and Sumanth’s reply was simple “it just doesn’t want to”.

Handling the montane trinket, a very calm snake

The Cat Snake was next, aptly named after its eyes. This one was swift and crawling here n there. I know I handled it really bad as it was not comfortable and running away. Sumanth told, it is really scared and better we leave it back.

The cat snake. Notice the eyes

Phew, it was a great start for expedition, already spotted few birds, lizards and now handled few snakes as well. Now we went down-stream again to leave back the snakes and search for animal marks: the poops, pug marks or burrows. Poop of Ottur was easy to identify as it ate a lot of crabs and shells were present.

Broken shells left by an otter

We found few poops of porcupine as well and a burrow, recently used. It was quite deep but no animal was inside.

I went ahead of group to click few good photos of a cormorant and a sunbird. After some more hops and jumps among the rocks, the group receded to save energy for the walk in night.

It was tea-time (the rocking black tea or coffee at Medhe J), we all sat around the front yard exchanging knowledge, interests and lives. Sumanth also handed us a handbook for the expedition which included details about the Lorises for which we were here, apart from other mammals found around the field station and general note making details.

Slender Loris

A slender loris

Slender Loris are mammals endemic to Western Ghats and some parts of Srilanka. They are right now endangered due to habitat loss and poaching for black magic. They are unique in many senses as they are only primates without a tail (apart from humans) and are insectivorous. Another interesting fact I came to know was these mammals are venomous (the only second mammal apart from platypus found in Australia). They are nocturnal and their eyes shine bright red if focused by a torch light, so they are easy to locate in night though they are very well camouflaged during the day with no movements whatsoever.

At around 8:00 we started climbing the hill just beside the field station. With torches close to heads we kept looking at tree canopies to search for this mammal. We were not talking or making any sounds, as guided by Sumanth. But the dry leaves below with 10 people walking made enough noise. Sumanth noticed a mouse deer which just went away. We set up a camera trap to catch their glimpse. We moved forward and the success! Sumanth noticed the first Loris at a tree top. It was a real dense canopy, typical of evergreen forest, so only few others could also see the shining eyes before it vanished. I wasn’t among the lucky ones. While walking further in forest we say a bird sleeping on a tree branch. That was really beautiful sight, never imagined to witness one in my life. It was a blue bird, just silently sleeping very close to us. A different behavior I saw as it got disturbed but dint chirp or tried to fly.

Now I walked closer to Sumanth as he was leading and I got lucky now. A Loris was visible on a far away branch of a canopy, slowly moved away as we focused on its eyes. They were glowing red. Another 15min walk and we saw another one, this time me and Sumanth could even see its full body as it was on a lower branch.

Now we reached a water pool, a slow stream flowing here. For me it seemed a perfect place to just silently sit and wait for animals to come and quench. We set up 2 more camera traps here and started to recede back. After an hour of walk, we came across the Mouse Deers again. They were two, one mother and an infant. Sumanth spotted them and few of us could see their shining eyes before they got lost in the forest. After walking further, Sumanth picked a bronze skink that was skinning. He held it loose and then let it go away as it was really scared. The poop release tells you that.

Back to the station, there was a scorpion waiting just outside our room. Sumanth got a UV torch to show us how it glowed in dark but against a white background the UV gleamed our eyes. He then captured it inside a small box to show us after dinner. Later he put it on a ground and wow it glowed fantastic under the UV light. Also as a demo he showed how my teeth also glow :P

The day was not over yet, as Rishab caught a frog to show us. It was ‘Indirana’ genus frog that was beautiful. He captured some good images (much better than my amateur skills). Wohoo! That was fantastic. What a day of my life. I was content, happy to see so much of wilderness, to meet so many interesting people and most importantly, complete disconnect from outer world. And something we were all forgetting, it was Christmas and we did not wish that to anyone entire day. Seems those are other world things here. I was wondering what else awaits for the next few days. I slept quickly to wake-up early next day for my bird watch. It was a cold night.

Day2, Medhe field station

Early morning at 06.30am, before even my alarm rang I was up. Surprisingly it was a very silent morning, not much chirping of birds around. Sun was still to rise and while I was rubbing my eyes, looking out of the station balcony, a pair of Hornbills just flew across. Damn I missed to click again. Minutes later, far far away a racket tailed Drongo glided out of the forest and then dived back again. Those 2 seconds it gave, I was able to capture one bleak shot.

Later part of morning I kept looking around, but no luck. I could spot some birds in bush, probably Prinias and some chirps here n there, but then I just came back for breakfast and the days plan. Morning plan was to get back the camera traps, for which some of us went. Nothing much to spot apart from the dense forest, few flowers here and there and some webs of funnel spiders. We came back, now heading towards our next plan to trek to a village closer by. It was getting hot now, probably all wildlife also hidden to save energy during day, so we did not spot anything. Sumanth did spot a Sambhar but no one else saw it, and few vacant burrows. We decided to return back mid-way via another route. There was a view point from where you could see the entire valley. The five layers of hills, not visible otherwise, was a beautiful sight.

Rich forest of the western ghats

It took us another hour to reach back. Dinesh had seen some frog eggs which he wanted to show Sumanth. They all went upstream, I also followed them but bad, I lost them and almost fell into a rock gap, a tree branch saved me. I dropped the idea to search them and returned, but I spotted a frog (Nyctibatrachus Kumbara) which I clicked and later showed to Rishab who told me species.

Lunch was served, that simple and amazing dal chawal, paapad, roti, pickle n curry. We all now were closer as a group cracking jokes and discussing stuff. Rishab, a student of wildlife biology in Melbourne showed photos of his visit in Peru. I was awestruck by the fauna diversity there. Some interesting species like boa snakes, hoatzin birds and fer-de-lance also added to my dictionary. Now followed the best part of day, visit to the water pool upstream. It was a tricky climb at some sections, but I knew each inch of it due to last visit. Poor Survesh had a fall on rock, so he gave up to climb further. We all went ahead and reached the pool. The waterfall above it added different charm.

The secluded waterfall and the memorable dips

It was cold water and it took me some time to gain the confidence to enter into the deep section. Dinesh seemed like a pro swimmer here, jumping from all places. Later I also started swimming from one side to other, with more confidence. With me were Vinod, Gorika and Harsha as well. After an hour of swim, I was shivering badly due to cold water. We planned to start back now. Sadly we saw litter near the place and I felt the challenge of taking care of 100acres. I thought of taking it back, but Rishab said they will get it cleared sometime.

Return trek adventurous again. Lot of bouldering and then the trick to cross the rock section, that all followed. Since trash disturb my sight always, this time I spotted a camera inside water pool near the rock section. Can’t leave it here, so I decided to jump in and fetch it. Soon we realized, this belonged to Svaresh who was really thankful later when we met him at the hut. I was full wet now but had to continue this way before changing in room.

Some tea and rest, we had plan for another night walk this time in another direction, the same road we came from on day1. Holding our torches in darkness we kept walking looking around for any reptile or any other species. Those tiny glowing eyes of funnel spiders and those of Moths you could easily spot. Sometime later Sumanth saw a ground Gecko. I wonder how he is able to spot them as those are totally camouflaged. He caught it and showed to all. The little chap was angry as he bit Sumanth’s hand. No point others handle it so he left it back, but Rishab tried to catch it again. It dropped its tail and ran-off. A peculiar behavior of Geckos to drop their tail when in danger, as it grows back again. I witnessed this for the first time.

Few minutes later we saw another Gecko, usually found hidden in rocks, the Prasad's gecko. I was lucky to capture it just in time as it vanished.

Later Dinesh spotted a bamboo pit viper snake sitting on a tree branch at a tree top. That was really a good find as it was really hard to notice. It was really beautiful green snake and a venomous one. Later Vinod spotted a bronze-back snake sitting on a branch of a plant. I realized I dint had that sharp eye as I just went passed all of these. Sumanth caught this snake from branch and showed us. It was a non-venomous one so we can handle it, but since it was really scared (evident from poop and tongue movement) we left it back on the branch.

Already quite successful, we kept moving to search more. A lizard sleeping on a tree branch was another beauty. I clicked a moth, a caterpillar and another sleeping bird. This one had fluffed itself and hidden its face under a wing, beautiful. After setting 3 camera traps we started back. I was still looking around to spot something. Apart from house centipede, found nothing.

Back at station, some more talk sessions and I crashed again to my bed hoping tomorrow morning will have better birding around. I set my alarm and got lost into the amazing sleep of that silent place. I miss that badly in this city where I sit right now to pen down the story.

Day3, Medhe field station

Another exciting day as I woke up again before my alarm could ring. And I saw Sumanth was up too, heating that huge vessel of hot water with woods. I wished him morning and he told he caught a cobra this morning.

The episode: Sumanth for a walk uphill and found this huge spectacled cobra lying there. He didn’t had any stick to handle the snake so he just caught it from its tail and brought to the station where he kicked Rishab, still sleeping in his sleeping bag. Rishab had a great start of day with an early morning kick and cobra looking into his eyes. He went to fetch a snake bag and stick to handle the snake. As cobra happily slided into the snake bag, Rishab also went back into his sleeping bag J

Whoa I was excited, but we had to wait till all wake up and Sumanth shows it to all. I went uphill again to spot birds. I was sitting under a huge canopy totally covered by bushes around me. The intent was to hide myself well and spot some birds there. I saw a white bird that flew by at some distance. After another glide I realized, it was the Asian Paradise flycatcher! Wohoo, I saw it again, only after my last expedition. I zoomed in with my camera to capture it but it was swift and maybe it noticed me and flew. I went near stream to see it again but dint happen. I came back for the cobra show as most people were up now.

Strict instructions from Sumanth, do not move when he takes out the snake. All anxiously waited with cameras in their hands and Sumanth very carefully untied the bag, not touching it from below. And the bag is black to keep the snake calm.

He pulled out the snake using the stick, woo it was a huge one. It seemed very polite and just wanted to run away until Sumanth demonstrated how it gets attentive to moving objects. The hood of cobra was up once Sumanth started moving the black bag. The hiss and its strikes on bag were telling the mood of snake. After a couple of strikes, which seemed dry bites only, the cobra now made a big bite on the bag, few drops of its venom fell on floor. I was watching all of it very carefully as I really wanted to understand the behavior of snake. It tried to slide into the black bag again, that’s what snakes do, they want to hide into dark places. Sumanth was real confident and he now moved his foot to distract the snake. The hood was up again and it wanted to strike but he handled it very well. He also showed us how you make a snake angry if you just hang the snake, it is more comfortable when u give a support in middle.

Sumanth handling spectacled cobra

Now it was time to leave it back. Not any far, just near the station Sumanth placed it on ground. With its hood up the snake kept waiting for a while looking at all people. It was trying to understand the situation. Since it did not move from there for a while, Sumanth picked it up again and placed it little further from where it just moved to the forest.

The snake gazed for a while before it slithered back to forest

Today was a day for long walk that looped through the forest and met the stream really below, from where we have to trek back along it. We started at around 10.30 and kept walking on the jeep road for almost an hour. On the way we checked out few burrows which were possibly made by Indian Pangolin. One of the burrows was really deep and it curled in somewhere. A possibility of some animal inside but it was hard to check it. We went ahead and then crossed a forest patch to meet the water stream again. Now we had to climb upstream. After little adventure of tackling the rock scriptures, done by running water over thousands of years, we reached at foots of a huge waterfall. After some wait we all climbed it up to now reach another section from where water fell as white milk. I was wondering what a beautiful piece of forest land TGMP was owning. Now things became tricky as this section was hard to climb. With no evident route, we stared to explore a way to the right of the fall. Among thick trees and vines, and the branches full of horns, we were stuck at a ‘no go’ point. Rishab, Dinesh and Anant were figuring out alternate paths but the rule of ‘stick together’ was broken and we lost track of Dinesh and Anant. We figured out a way eventually, but no clue where these two guys went as there was no response of our calls as well (Rule of silence also broken :P). As I heard from Dinesh earlier, they had done some treks into Himalayas earlier, so I was sure they will be able to make it back without any problem. Getting lost is part of adventure and I have experienced it so many times.

After a short climb we hit the jeep trail again and then walk back to station. I was sad, not able to capture anything special today. I kept a slow walk till the station still positive to find something. At station when we reached, Dinesh and Anant were happily enjoying their lunch. They reached 30min before us.

Rest of the day again went in chit-chat. The night walk for tonight would be the last one. Post dinner we started to trek again the same path where we saw Lorises. After an hour of walk, Sumanth found a Vine Snake on a tree branch. That was a real awesome find of this green Snake totally camouflaged over green branches of trees. This was a juvenile. I was uttering its name from day1 but Sumanth told they can be seen mainly in monsoon, but luck played by my side tonight.

Handling the vine snake was the most wonderful feeling of my life. It was a polite species that happily crawled over my arms. I created gaps in my fingers to make it feel like a tree branch and it happily moved between them.  No fast movements, as if it was happy to meet us. We all handled it and then left it back. When it opened its mouth the pink inners were clearly visible. It’s a mildly venomous species, but showed no aggression at all.

The very friendly green vine snake

We moved ahead and set-up camera traps at 2 places as Sumanth noticed feces of Leopard (very old, with undigested hairs in it).

Later we were on hill top and Sumanth found treasure! That was nothing but poop balls of wild Hare with which we played the craziest game of my life. You pop in the ball in your mouth, wet it properly and then shoot as far as u can! Yea, we all played that for some time. I even collected some balls as souvenirs : P

Later we did some star gaze, when everyone laid down with me to look up (PJ), and I did show off for a while. We returned back know for the last night in camp, some experiments with torch light we did there and a long talk session that ended at 1am.

Day4

The last chance of bird watch and I didn’t want to miss. I didn’t expect at all that it’s going to be the best one actually. I woke up early again and went to Gerry’s under construction office uphill the station. I was there for almost 45min but apart from a Prinia, I couldn’t find anything. I returned for my tea and again went to the bushes where I saw a puff throated babbler few days back. I was very close to a pair of chirping birds, but a dense canopy separated us so I could not click these chirping ones. Just then a colorful bird flew across and I moved slowly to follow it. Hard luck I couldn’t find it again, but I sat there for some time and suddenly my luck paid back, an Asian Paradise Flycatcher came and sat right in front, few metres away. I was hard to click it as I was behind some dense branches (apparently making me hard to spot), but I did succeed this time. I went closer and it flew away. The colorful bird now arrived, that was an Emerald Dove and later I saw another colorful bird (a blue capped Rockthrush). Already successful for the day I returned back to camp to tell all what I captured. After breakfast I saw the paradise flycatcher was still near the stream below. I just went down and hid myself under the tree branches. A perfect position as I got a better click of the Asian Paradise Flycatcher (both male and female), saw a grey wagtail, the black crested bulbuls, few other birds and my friend Kingfisher. Why friend, coz this guy sat very close to me searching for a fish in stream. I could capture all possible shots and it didn’t move. Phew! My trip was complete now. I saw what all I wished for and it filled me with so much content.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher

Black Crested Bulbul (Gularis)

Grey Wagtail

Blue Kingfisher

I sat around the stream, with Svaresh, Gorika, Rishab and Sumanth also there, for a natural fish spa. I saw an interesting hexaped inside water, I called water scorpion but till now not sure of species. Gorika was handling a crab with Sumanth and telling how this world was totally new for her. I remembered my time when I came in Feb.

Time for a last dip in the stream and I had an awesome head bath under the natural Jacuzzi. The trip was ending. Sumanth showed us clips from camera trap that we set-up last night. First time a success as we saw a ruddy Mongoose in one. God knows what scared it as it ran off from it. Another photo was bit scary. There were 2-3 poachers in the pic, with guns and hear torches. It was clicked just 45 mins after we came down after the star gaze. Sumanth told these must be small time poachers hunting wild boar etc and will be reported to authorities.

Sumanth sharing some tips

2.30 pm, a group photo and time to return. The last walk till the main road and this expedition ends here. With even more memories, learnings and friends these were among the most amazing days in wild away from city life. In the jeep we exchanged more jokes and talks, which also ended at around 5.30 when we reached the place to disperse. I was resistive to turn on my phone even after reaching Belgaum as I wanted to keep the world away for some more time. I explored the city for a while as my return bus was at 8.00pm. After some tea and strolling for about an hour, I boarded my bus back to Hyderabad.

Visitors of the wild (me on extreme right)

Photo credits: mostly self (Gagan), some by Vinod.

(Written by Gaganpreet Singh, a passionate adventurer and nature lover, working with Microsoft as a Software Engineer. He is also associated with a social initiative 'Joy of Reading' )

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